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This was originally a forum post for my BF2 clanmates. I was going through miscellaneous files on my flash drive and decided to publish it here as well.

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1. Playing Infantry…

Against Artillery: As soon as you hear the first whistle of an artillery shell, RUN AWAY from the flag. If there’s a wall to jump over or a hill nearby, head in that direction and jump (to quickly increase the distance between yourself and the flag). If there’s a building with a door/room nearby, go inside of there for cover. Something else – if the commander is hitting you with artillery often, do something about it. Blow up his assets as Special Forces. Try to bring along a Support player and a Medic Player. Someone’s gotta do it, so it may as well be you if no-one else is up to the challenge.

Against enemy choppers: After a short while of playing on a new server (or a new map, etc.) you can get an idea of if the enemy has a good chopper pilot or not. If he’s “raping” your team, you need to react to this and get defensive. A good chopper pilot (and gunner, for that matter) can add a lot of power to a team. Try to stay near the TOW – be prepared to shoot that chopper down. If you are weak with these weapons, get some practice with them, because they are not to be overlooked. Just note that a good chopper pilot/gunner knows where they are, so you’ll have to be quick! Also, don’t overlook Humvees and Vodniks – the machine guns on them eat through choppers and, better yet, they don’t “alert” the chopper of your presence (such as a missle does). Just make sure to not sit out in the open – drive your vehicle into a secluded spot. At the very least, it will distract the chopper and make him get repaired, which is a good defensive play.

Against Tanks/APCs: Use buildings and objects to your advantage as defense. You are much quicker than these vehicles, so it’s easy to escape. Be aware of the “splash damage” that APCs have – hiding behind a corner may not be helpful enough – you may have to run away further. Always spot these vehicles so that your Anti-Tank and Special Forces teammates can take them out. Note where their turrets are facing if you are going to try to C4 it. If possible, take out the gunner of the tank when he’s not looking in your direction. If you are Anti-Tank, don’t keep hitting him from the same spot. Run around the building, fence, etc. and hit him from a different direction each time. Don’t just shoot at them aimlessly – check out this link, which shows the sweet spots. If I recall correctly, you want to hit the APC either in the front wheel well (right above the front tire) or where the turret meets the frame in the front. For tanks, aim at the treads from the front of rear – not the side. I think where the turret meets the frame is a good spot too for hitting tanks. Last, if he’s “sitting on a supply crate”, blow it up!

Movement: Always have a goal of where you’re going. Don’t wander around aimlessly. If you aren’t sure, find a safe spot to hide, go prone, look at the map and decide where your goal is. Ideally you will be in a squad with a squad leader, so you’ll have a waypoint, but unfortunately it doesn’t always work out this way. I find it’s better so stick to the side of buildings and objects when you’re moving, as opposed to running in the middle of a street or open area. Be aware of your surroundings and use them to your advantage. For example, if you are in the middle of the road, people can see you from all angles (360 degrees). If you are on the side of a building, then (theoretically) enemies can only see you 50% less (180 degrees) – this also means you have less of an area to watch for enemies, which is good – it’s easier to focus on a smaller area.

Grenades: Get familiar with aiming them first off, of course. They are very useful when you run into a large group of enemies or you see an enemy Medic running up to revive someone – time it so right after he’s revived, they both get blown up by the nade. Don’t “spam” them though because that’s just annoying and doesn’t take much skill … I guess an exception is if you are covering a flag and you are a Support kit on top of a roof – it makes tactical sense then.

2. Playing Tank/APC…

Defensive tips against Anti-Tank and Special Forces: When you’re in closed quarters and/or capturing a flag, press F10 to switch to the outside view. This will help you see if there’s a Special Forces enemy sneaking up on you trying to plant C4 on your vehicle. It also helps spot Anti-Tank enemies. I also like to move back and forth while staying in the perimeter of the flag to capture it, instead of just staying still. This way, if a SF is running toward me and I’m already moving toward him, I just keep advancing and run him over. If I’m already headed the other way I just keep moving in that direction then blast him when there’s enough distance between us.

Engineer: Play Engineer, of course, and try to stay near other vehicles so you can keep them repaired. Hopefully they are informed enough and they are Engineer as well, so they can help you as well. If your vehicle has 50% health or less, retreat to an area that’s not usually populated, hop out and repair your vehicle. Don’t forget to drop AT mines in hot spots.

Don’t be a lone wolf: Tanks are great supporting infrantry (and vice versa). This way, your fellow infantry can help ward off enemy Anti-Tank kits and Special Forces kits. And, in case there’s a hostile vehicle/armor, you are there to protect them.

Use your weapons properly: Remember that the APC has a nasty rocket (right-click) – not just the turret. Use that against enemy APCs and enemy Tanks. Don’t waste it on enemy vehicles though.

Ground Defense weapons (i.e. TOW, HJ-8): Be are of where they are and take them out as soon as you see them (unless your friendly infantry are there defending that flag, of course).

AT mines: Watch out for them! Get in the habit of looking at the ground ahead of you (not just for enemies). Note that if you are Engineer you can use your wrench to disable them – be careful though of getting out of your vehicle! This works best when you are an Engineer playing gunner.

If you are faced against multiple Anti-Tank enemies, or you keep getting hit by one guy and you can’t see him, move elsewhere. Chances are, if you stick around, you’re toast. You want the element of surprise, and with you being spotted on the enemies radar, the surprise is gone. Go get repaired and move along somewhere else.

3. Playing attack chopper (pilot and gunner)…

Move, move move. Don’t hover or else you’re a sitting duck and you’ll have to start avoiding Anti-Tank kits instead of just Ground Defense weapons. Get in the habit of taking out Ground Defense weapons (namely the TOW) as you pass by them, regardless if someone is in it.

Dog fights (against other choppers): ELEVATE. You are in a better defensive position being more elevated than your opponent’s chopper. The basic procedure is to strafe either left or right to dodge their (potential) TV guide missle, then sit still for a second while your gunner shoots a TV guided missle, then strafe the opposite direction. Rinse and repeat … and keep elevating.

When you have 50% armor or less get healed.

Communicate with your fellow pilot/gunner!

Give support to your squads. Both choppers may as well not even be in the game if you are just going to dog fight an enemy chopper.

4. Playing transport chopper…

These things can be great assets if used properly. Drop snipers on tall buildings. Move troops from capture point to capture point and capture flags quickly.

5. General tips…

Don’t be afraid to retreat when you are at a disadvantage. I’m sure we’re all guilty of this. We either want revenge on someone that just killed us, or we feel like Rambo. It’s a hard habit to break but once you do, you’re rewarded for it because you have less deaths (therefore a better score and better stats), in addition to the fact that the enemy (and their team) will get less points, which is important for maps like Sharqi where that’s what matters. Example: You turn around a corner and see 2 guys who see you. Statistically, they have a better chance of killing you then you do of them. So why risk it? There is no shame in retreating – “live to fight another day”. Since I adopted this approach, I realized how helpful it is. Usually I get hit a few times but it’s OK because I find a Medic or med kit and I’m good-to-go.

6. BF2S… There’s a lot of useful information on the BF2S wiki (http://wiki.bf2s.com). Additionally, there are plenty of “kit guides” etc. on the BF2S forums (http://forums.bf2s.com). Highly recommended.

Sunday was fruitful:

Quake 4 with box, manual, clean discs – $6

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The seller claimed that he never played online and he uninstalled it from his PC. For six bucks, I decided it was worth the risk that I won’t potentially be able to play online, due the CD key already being in use. I know where he lives anyway, so I could egg his house, or something, if warranted. “Just like the good ‘ol days. You can waste your life away.” -Joel Plaskett. I have a feeling “Everything will work out fine” -Joel Plaskett. I used to play lots of Quake 3 Arena and was pretty good at it (IIRC, Q3DM7 FTW). In fact, my first gaming PC, an Athlon 700 MHz with a 64 MB AGP 4x GeForce 2 GTS, was built after seeing a friend Josh play Q3A. I stopped playing around the time I was introduced to CS, and wasn’t interested in Q4 probably because I was involved in BF2. This will be quite a change of pace from CS:S and BF2 (especially the Reality Mod), as Q3A was a much faster game, so presumably, Q4 will also be. I’m now on my way to Wikipedia to see what the general consensus is on Q4.

1 stick of Kingston 512 MB PC3200 RAM – $20

Project Retro Gamer PC had a free dual-channel memory slot that was asking to be filled, since Erin so generously gave it to me. Running GeeXboX, the upgrade probably won’t make much of a difference, but I may run MCE 2005 in the future, so I couldn’t pass up a matching, brand-name stick for twenty bones. They are about $35 new, so $20 is fair. As a baseline for crudely measuring video performance, I have a HD (720p I believe) nVidia 8800 demo video that was very choppy the last time I ran it, and I believe it ended up locking up the PC. I will try it again this evening, after the RAM upgrade and update this post with the test results. Update, it didn’t do shiat to that video – still froze.

1 HP LaserJet 6L with spare (brand new) toner cartridge, delivered – $30

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It all started when father gave me his old 6L, which has worked like a charm for me over the years. I don’t recall him having problems with it either. Well, it started acting up a couple of months ago, “multi feeding” (pulling too much paper). Brother cleaned its innards and that resolved the issue for a short while, until it returned along with another issue where the printer makes a loud noise and prints (usually) solid black pages. Upon closer inspection, it seemed to be the laser part (a metal box on top with a yellow warning sticker about lasers) that was making the noise, so we decided it would be best to just buy a used one at Logic Approach in South Austin. We’ve seen used 6L units there before, for $19. In fact, mother and one of her friends each bought one, per our recommendation. Unfortunately, there was only one left and it was in bad shape so we declined.

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All was not lost though, because I found a Logitech Wingman Force Feedback USB Mouse on the 50% off rack. Although it had no price tag, the word “Trash” was written in marker a few times on the box. It didn’t sway me. Brother chuckled when I expressed interest in it, and I said something in return like “Well, if I can get it for five bucks, who cares if it actually works.” The clerk opened the box and we all giggled after taking a closer look at it. The mouse and pad are one unit – that is, you can’t remove the mouse from the pad. Additionally, the mouse is limited to a certain “square” area, mostly at the top of the mouse pad. So, your wrist stays put and you control it with your fingers (which is how I game anyway, with high sensitivity). An AC adapter is included to drive the motors, or whatever. He let me have it for $5, but didn’t have any recommendations for where else we could look for a 6L.

Brother and I were initially skeptic about the fact that the mouse was attached to the pad because, as we all know (but may not realize), you periodically have to lift a mouse and put it back in the center of your mouse area. Well, that’s impossible with this mouse, so the question was posed, “What were they thinking”? The answer, I now know, is “Outside the box!” I connected it to Retro, downloaded the latest version I could find of the Wingman software for 9x, and installed it. When the mouse is at the top-left, the mouse cursor remains at the top-left, and so forth. Compare this to a normal mouse, where the cursor stops, but you can keep moving the mouse in that direction (hence, if you move too far, you have to reposition the mouse by picking it up and dropping it back, as previously mentioned). As far as the force feedback is concerned, I’m not sure if that part is working. I do feel some friction depending on what the mouse is moving over, and can “feel” the edges of the screen when I get close, but I was also expecting “rumbles” in the supported games (3 included: Gruntz – 1999, Heavy Gear II (Black Talon?) 1999?, Railroad Tycoon II – 1998) that I never ended up feeling. Granted, I didn’t spend much time with those games, so hopefully I was being impatient. One thing that suggests to me the mouse may be defective (besides, of course, the words “Trash” written on the box) is that the mouse itself has a blue LED, yet mine has never lit. The blue LED on the mouse pad, however, does light. After I play around with this gizmo some more, I’ll update this section.

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Back to the 6L. Brother and I ended up finding one at Discount Electronics for $39. Considering I already had a brand new toner cartridge from when father gave me the printer, and the 6L rubs me the right way, for a good, stable, low-cost, network printer (it’s attached to a print server), as well as the fact that it was the only one they had in stock, I took the plunge. After a few tests, it exhibited the same “multifeed” behaviour, which meant that I’d end up with store credit at Discount Electronics – a place I’ve been before that’s becoming commonplace. A quick peek on austin.craigslist brings us back to the beginning of the story, sort of. I ended up spending too much store credit ($9) for some “ice blue” USB-powered mini Christmas lights that caught my attention on previous browsing sessions. Sorry, they’re called “USB Deco Light”. Or is it Lights? I mean Its. Obviously, a new addition to Project Neo Tokyo. I have so much blue stuff already, I decided that blue will be my theme, going forward, besides anything that cycles colors, of course. This means it’s time for a new (version 4, I think) Neo Tokyo picture, which will be used as my avatar for forums, etc.

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